The name originates in the Persian,قلمکار which is derived from the words qalam (pen) and Kari (craftmanship), meaning drawing with a pen.
Kalamkari is a type of hand-painted or block-printed cotton textile produced in Isfahan, Iran, and in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. Only natural dyes are used in this traditional art of magic creation.
HOW WAS THIS ART BORN?
Kalamkari was born out of the art of storytelling. People traveled from village to village in ancient times and told stories; some even drew it on a canvas. This was how the art of Kalamkari was born. This art is primarily used to make Kalamkari sarees. During the Mughal era, this art of Kalamkari got its recognition.
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Timeless Art — courtesy: Wikipedia
Musicians and painters, known as chitrakars, moved from the village to tell the village dwellers the stories of Hindu mythology. They illustrated their accounts using large bolts of canvas painted on the spot with simple means and dyes extracted from plants. Similarly, the ones found in Hindu temples are large panels of Kalamkari depicting the episodes of Hindu mythology and iconography, similar to Buddhist Thangka paintings.
It was found in the wealthy peak of Golconda sultanate, Hyderabad, in the Middle Ages as an art form. The Mughals who patronized this craft in the Coromandel and Golconda province called the practitioners of this craft "Qualamkars", from which the term "Kalamkari" evolved. The Pedana Kalamkari craft made in Pedana nearby Machilipatnam in Krishna district, Andhra Pradesh, evolved under the patronage of the Mughals and the Golconda sultanate. Owing to the said patronage, this school was influenced by Persian art under Islamic rule.
Kalamkari art has been practiced by many families in Andhra Pradesh, some villages in Tamil Nadu (Sickinaickanpettai) by migrants from Telugu speaking families over the generations have constituted their livelihood. Kalamkari had a period of decline, then was revived in India and abroad for its craftsmanship. Since the 18th century, the British have enjoyed the decorative element for clothing.
TECHNIQUE :
The process of Kalamkari painting is very slow and dynamic. It goes through a process of resist — dyeing and hand printing. There are several treatments involved before and after the painting is finished. The colors change depending on the treatment of cloth and the quality of the mordant. Every step in the process is done and with perfection.
The flow of Making — image courtesy — Behance
The process of making Kalamkari involves 23 steps. From the natural process of bleaching the fabric, softening it, sun drying, preparing natural dyes, hand painting, to the processes of air drying and washing, the entire procedure is a process that requires precision and an eye for detailing.
The cotton fabric used for Kalamkari is first treated with a solution of cow dung and bleach. After keeping the fabric in this solution for hours, the fabric gets a uniform off-white color. After this, the cotton fabric is immersed in a mixture of buffalo milk and Myrobalans. This avoids smudging dyes in the fabric when it is painted with natural dyes. Later, the fabric is washed under running water to get rid of the odor of buffalo milk. The fabric likewise, is washed twenty times and dried under the sun. Once the fabric is ready for painting, artists sketch motifs and designs on the fabric. Post this, the Kalamkari artists prepare dyes using natural sources to fill colors within the drawings.
Kalamkari in Modern Era
credits — UX collective
Kalamkari paintings have a blooming market in and outside of India. Today, the Kalamkari art for sale is available in leading exhibitions that display and promote Indian handicrafts. In modern times the handwork is replaced by digital. Kalamkari is an intricate art form and requires a tedious technique in its making; because of which the art of Kalamkari was losing its shine.
With the emergence of high-quality machine looms and acceptance for printed textiles; Kalamkari art came on the verge of extinction. However, printed Kalamkari is a new craze among the current generation, as it is a combination of traditional and modern trends. Kalamkari sarees, Kalamkari dresses, and Kalamkari blouses are a huge running trend.
Several fashion designers beautifully portray Kalamkari sarees on runways and got a great response. Kalamkari these days is not restricted to paintings and sarees only; many fashion attires also have Kalamkari prints.
Due to vibrant Kalamkari designs and natural dyes, Kalamkari is used as a symbol of the region’s heritage.
AN ART STILL IN VOGUE …..
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